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Peeling Back the Layers

It’s a cosmetic jungle out there with hundreds of brands competing with each other to make us hand over our cash.

They know we all want our skin to look as young as possible – and we know the hype surrounding skin care products means that we often have no idea what to use or which claims to believe. But help is at hand. Here Leeds GP and skincare expert Dr Mark Palmer a member of the British Association of Cosmetic Doctors and American Academy of Aesthetics Medicine, tells us what is really going on. Away from the confusing claims and counter claims he explains exactly what is happening to our skin in different decades of life, and what actually works in the battle to stay youthful.

TWENTIES

The Facts
In our twenties our skin is ageing internally even though it may look great on the surface. Enzymes produced in our skin are breaking down collagen and elastine fibres, which give it the fullness, support and elasticity, and this process is speeded up by exposure to the sun, cigarettes smoking and excessive alcohol.

Sadly the cells that can repair our skin, fibroblasts become less active in our 20s and fall asleep. They also begin to die and so become depleted in numbers.

What To Do
Prevention is the key, begin using a potent anti-oxidant preparation daily from a young age as possible, to protect the skin against DNA damage and from the chemical changes that age the skin from within.

The most potent anti-oxidant product currently on the market is SkinCeuticals CEFerulic Acid – and it also has the advantage of directly stimulating collagen production. Also apply a sunscreen which protects fully against UVA as well as UVB radiation whenever out doors or sitting near glass (UVA radiation easily penetrates glass) SkinCeuticals sunscreens are particularly recommended as they contain Zinc Oxide, which blocks most of the UVA spectrum.

THIRTIES

The Facts
In our 30s the process that began in or 20s continues. The fibroblasts cells are dormant and inactive so do nothing to repair our skin as it ages. so it become thinner and less elastic. Permanent lines and wrinkles begin to appear at stress points in the skin where muscles are constantly creasing it. The outer layer of the skin often begins to show signs of damage too.

UV irradiation in particular damages the cells in the outer layers cumulatively over time by permanently and progressively scrambling their genetic code. The cells begin to behave abnormally and the dead outer layer may thicken and become dull, which will accentuate wrinkles.

Pigmentation cells begin to malfunction and produce patches and unsightly irregular pigmentation. At first we may think these are just freckles but they will progress, enlarge and become age spots.

They represent areas of DNA damage and have the potential to turn into skin cancer.

What To Do
Consider adding a product to reawaken the fibroblasts cells and increase the activity in producing collagen and repairing the skin.

Retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives) have the most scientific evidence to support their ability to increase the activity of the fibroblast cells. However, the concentration of any product containing Retinol must be high enough for it to have any effect.

SkinCeutical Retinol creams 0.5 per cent and 1 per cent are by far the most concentrated Retinol products available. Alternatively prescription strength Retinoids can be used, such as Retin A

FORTIES & FIFTIES

The Facts In our 40s and 50s the ageing process of the skin is well underway- but it also becomes very apparent which people have been taking preventative action in earlier decades.

There is a wide variation in the apparent age of the skin from person to person and those who have exposed their skin to cigarette smoke and the sun will suffer the consequences.

One person’s skin may look up to thirty years older than the skin of another person of identical age who has taken careful preventative action.

The risk of skin cancer increases with cumulative DNA damage in the skin and pre-cancerous and cancerous abnormalities are common in these decades.

The skin is like a rubbery sheet stretch over the face and once it is weakened and losses thickness supportive strength and elasticity beyond a certain point it will allow the entire face to start to sag. Facial sagging is a particular characteristic and consequence of advanced ageing of the skin in forth and fifth decades. If severe this often requires surgery to correct it. Even this is only a temporary fix and we should therefore do everything possible to delay and prevent it.

What To Do
In ones 40s the fibroblast need intensive stimulation to remain as active as possible, and so glycolic acid can be added to the regime. This can be applied as a clinic based skin peel and or as a daily home care treatment.

There are many product available containing glycolic acid such as SkinCeuticals Intense Line Defense and Renew Overnight. Clinic based treatments will also stimulate increased fibroblast activity, these include: medical skin peels, microdermabrasion, this must be aggressive enough to be effective. Intense Pulse Light or Laser treatments

Isolagen (which replaces fibroblasts with new copies of your own cells) and popular French techniques in France of Mesotherapy (nappage or mesolift). Radio Frequency Energy (Thermage) has also been recently developed as another effective treatment to stimulate fibroblasts activity.

In 50s the skin has an increasing tendency to become dehydrated and in addition to daily moisturiser and protective regime described here, one should add a more intensive hydrating agent such as Hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid is available for topical application as SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel and will attract to itself more than 1,000 times its own weight in water. Glycolic acid also has a similar but less powerful ‘hygroscopic ‘effect and the combination of both treatments is particularly effective.

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LESLIE BAUMANN, M.D., is Associate Professor and Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at the Miller School of Medicine at the University of Miami, and founder of the university’ s internationally recognized Cosmetic Center. She is on the advisory boards or does research for many companies, including Johnson and Johnson (Aveeno, Neutrogena), Avon, Allergan, and others. Dr. Baumann designed and created the University of Miami Cosmetic Center in 1997. It is currently the only University run clinic in the US that is devoted to research of cosmetic dermatology issues. It was developed with the vision of a high end cosmetic dermatology clinic but with a purely scientific basis. The knowledge gained through their research is used to give our patients the most up-to-date and effective treatments. The Clinic has never performed any procedures that have not proven to be beneficial to the skin. Dr. Baumann devotes her time to seeing patients, authoring her textbook and monthly column "Cosmeceutical Critique", http://www.eskinandallergynews.com, performing research and training other dermatologists in addition to her administrative duties as the director of the center.

Dr. Baumann's first book available in April 2006 (February 2006 in the USA) is entitled, The Skin Type Solution, and ($22.00 from Bantam Hardcover 0-553-80422-7). You may see her site at www.skintypesolution.com. According to Dr. Baumann, there are MANY SkinCeuticals products mentioned in it.

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